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Found 6 results

  1. Paid $40 AUD all up for it, amazing DVD very detailed and great for someone looking for a guide whilst rebuilding! Price was $24.95USD+10.95 USD to ship it. $35 USD it about $43 Aus if you look it up! Selling for $30, can post anywhere in Aus for $5 or pickup from The Hills Sydney.
  2. With the Silvia line getting older and the average owner getting younger, it could be said that this is the holy grail of mods. Cheapass to do, baller once done, and it just so happens the S15 radio bezel was made for it. Difficulty = 8 Where 0 is hardparking your Silvia, and 10 is being noticed. Time Required = ~9 hours, plus miscellaneous setup 9 hours should get the nexus in the bezel. Add time for mistakes and miscellaneous. Disclaimer Touching the tablet whilst driving is most likely illegal wherever you are in Australia, so be sensible with your usage and configuration. The primary goal for mine is music and GPS, both of which can comfortably be setup whilst parked, as the tablet can obviously be run off the internal battery for a long time. Most music player apps allow you to skip tracks through a simple swipe, which is unlikely to land you in hot water with the Police, or can be operated via voice commands or potentially via a keys from a hacked bluetooth keyboard. GPS software should always be setup when stationary anyway, so that too shouldn't be an issue either. If you plan on pushing buttons whilst waiting at traffic lights, at least be discrete and have a jacket or something covering the gap between the front seats so it isn't obvious to any cops sitting behind you. Tools Required Razor knife Soldering iron Side cutters Wire strippers Screw driver set Drill + various drill bits Various small bolts and nuts Flux-cored solder Electrical tape Gaffa tape Angle grinder Metal file Bench Vice Sand paper Body filler Catalysed putty glue Packet of M8x1.25x16 bolts with nuts Cheapass $3 Chinese earphones (you need a specific type of 3.5mm audio jack, and the Chinese junk tends to use it) 2m of dual-core shielded audio wire Female or male stereo audio plug/socket as preferred Various panel switches Non-oem micro-usb data cable (means it has 5 pins on the micro side, rather than 4) 300x10x3mm aluminium bar 1000x30x3mm aluminium bar Usage Music GPS navigation Facebook updates to people you don't like over topics you don't care about Factory workshop manuals on demand Pricechecking in the carpark Watching TV shows because it shouldn't take 10 minutes for her to change outfits Process Step 1. Slice off the tabs on the inside of the bezel, position the nexus and mark the bottom edge. Step 2. Cut the 300x10x3mm aluminium bar to 192mm length, position it in the middle of the markings, then carve a small channel into the bezel using a razor knife to match the bar. A snug fit is required, so mark around the bar using the knife for best results. Step 3. Insert the bar into the channel, then carefully trim the bezel for the flushest fit possible. The bar must be dead flush with the inside lip on the radio bezel, or it will look bad. Use the tablet to test and confirm success. Step 4. Remove the outer sheath from the small plug of the micro usb cable, using a knife. Step 5. Connect the USB cable to the Nexus, then trim the radio bexel until the Nexus can sit flat when positioned correctly. Step 6. Desolder the earth on the USB cable and bridge it to make a USB OnTheGo cable. In my case, I made the bridge switchable, but later cut the switch off in preference for simple wire twisting to change modes. I believe the switch I used was causing problems. There are plenty of guides on the Net regarding FIY USB OTG cables. Step 7. Remove the plug from some cheapass Chinese earphones, then solder up an audio lead. Google search for guides on how to do this, should you be unsure of the process. Step 8. Insert the audio plug in the Nexus, then gently bend the plug and trim the radio bezel until the Nexus can sit flush in the desired position. Be sure to test the lead with each change, as bending the plug can destroy the internal lines and make it mono. Step 9. That this is the easiest part to mess up, and the biggest pain in the ass to solve. Remove the back plate of the Nexus and CAREFULLY solder wires to the button pads. One wire goes to the circle, and the other goes to the ring that surrounds it. This is extremely easy to get wrong, so take note of the following: - When you solder it, be very fast to avoid heating the pad up - Pre-tin your wires and a small dab on the pad, so there's no soak time for the soldering process and hence less heat - Use very thin wire, such as the internal wires of dual core of audio cable - Do NOT make my mistake of leaving the shielding on the audio cable, as the weight and resistance will tear the pad off, and fixing it SUCKS - Take great care to position the wire in the dead center of the circle pad; it's easy to bridge the contacts - Use a multimeter set to continuity to confim that there are no contact bridges Step 10. Remove the power/volume buttons from the Nexus back plate, run the button wires through, then secure them on the back using Gaffa Tape. I ran some hot melt glue over the soldering to avoid unwanted movement or bridges. Step 11. Rough up the back of the radio bezel (don't touch the lip) and glue the 10mm bar in place. Step 12. Cut the 30mm aluminium bar to cover the Nexus and extend into the corners of the radio bezel. Step 13. Wrap the Nexus in plastic to avoid adhesion, then knead up some sets-like-stone metal repair putty to secure 4 M8 bolts in the corners of the bezel. The goal is to have the bolt head covered, the curved side of the Nexus covered, and the 10mm alumunium bar slightly covered, as the glue tends to pull off eventually. I suggest cutting the bolts down to the smallest size that will pass through the bars made in Step 12. Step 14. Remove the Nexus and then use a Dremel grinding wheel to clean up the putty so that the Nexus sits flush, stays locked in position and can be inserted and removed with ease. Step 15. Drill holes in the ends of the 30mm aluminium bars so that they can be bolted in place, crossing over each other. For best results, bend an arch in the outer bar [using a vice and hammer] so that it steps over the inner bar, making both bars sit hard up against the back of the Nexus. Once bolted in place, you can very carefully trim the ends of the bolts using a Dremel, should they foul on the panels when you install the bezel in the car. Be sure to cover the tablet properly when doing this to avoid damage or debris entering, and be gentle when cutting, to avoid cracking the putty through vibration. Step 16. If desired, sand, fill and paint the bezel. In my case, I also enlarged the cigarette lighter hole to allow my volume dial to seat further in. Step 17. Install the radio bezel and use a razor knife to trim any backing plastic that fouls on the retention bolts. The upper bolts should clear, but the lower bolts require a small recess to be cut. Step 18. From here, you should decide how you wish to setup the Nexus, rootkit it, install apps, wire in a charger, wire in a USB hub, mount power/vol buttons somewhere amd connect them to the tablet, install an amplifier, etc. There's a lot you can do and a lot of information on the Internet, so take your time and plan it out.
  3. They say that inside every man there is a Jew waiting to burst forth and not spend money on things, and no place is this more true than Nissansilvia. For those of you that experience pain at the mere thought of paying $100 for a headunit that is used as a glorified volume dial for your phone, time to cut out the middle-man and just install a volume dial instead. Difficulty = 3 Where 0 is listing your car for sale, and 10 is resisting temptation to straight-swap for a VN Commodore. Time Required = 0.5 - 3 hours Wiring the potentiometer is easy, but installation time varies depending on where and how you mount it. In my case, it took quite a long time to get everything aligned properly in the cigarette lighter hole, due to size of my dial and the tight clearances. Disclaimer Do not stab yourself in the face with the soldering iron. Tools Required Razor knife Soldering iron Side cutters Wire strippers Screw driver Drill + various drill bits 5m Dual RCA to Stereo lead Various small bolts and nuts Thin heatshrink tubing Flux-cored solder Electrical tape 25k ohm Double-gang Logarithmic Potentiometer Dial to suit potentiometer (mine came from JayCar and was covered in numbers) Angle grinder Metal file Galvanised steel 90 degree bracket Bench Vice Various steel mallets Usage Being a certified boss Changing volume without touching your phone. Or dong. Process Step 1. Cut the RCA cable about 1m from the stereo plug, or at a point the gives you sufficient length to meet your routing path Step 2. Take the potentiometer and identify the pins. Step 3. Strip the shielding from the wires and solder the input lines (the wire with the stereo plug) to the pins. It doesn't matter which bank of pins are nominated Left or Right. Step 4. Solder the output lines (the wire with the RCA plugs) to the pins. Put Right and Left on the same bank of pins as the Right/Left input. Step 5. Twist together the two Left cable shield wires and the two right cable shield wires , then solder to the third pins. Take note that you should leave the ends near the exposed wire unsoldered and untwisted for heat dissipation at low volume levels. Step 6. Confirm that the cable works by plugging it into your phone and a home amplifier. Step 7. Unsolder the Output lines, slip on some heatshrink tubing, resolder, cover with heatshrink and apply heat. Step 8. Wrap the wires of each bank of pins with electrical tape, then tape up all the wiring for protection. Step 9. Disassemble the S15 radio bezel button mount, and cut the back off with an angle grinder. Step 10. Bend the 90 degree bracket into a square-edged U shape that tightly slips over the button mount. Step 11. Cut the U bracket to fit. Step 12. Position the bracket on the button mount, mark the center of the cigarette lighter hole, then drill two holes to insert the thread of the potentiometer and location pin. I aligned mine such that the wires were pointing to the passenger's side, parallel to the ground. Step 13. Drill two holes on one side or the bracket, one hole on the other (short side), then bolt the potentiometer in place. Step 14. Install the button mount in the bezel, slide the bracket over the back, attach the dial/button, then align everything until you're happy with the location and it doesn't scrape anything. Step 15. Drill holes in the plastic on the long side of the bracket (top side), then bolt in place. Check the alignment and adjust as needed, then drill a hole and bolt the other side in. You have to use small nuts and bolts for this. Step 16. Install the button, test it works as desired, and install in car.
  4. As nice as the stock silvia bars are, the positioning and Jap-spec number plate brackets let them down. The plate hangs too low and doesn't align with the plastic border; bad airflow combined with bad fitment. You could buy a personalised slimline plate, but that doesn't fix the alignment, the government now has your beer money, and you look like a fag. Mounting the plate to one side will get you an emissions test, so why not just jack it up? Difficulty = 2 Where 0 is driving into the pits, and 10 is having them measure your ride height with +/-10cm accuracy. Time Required = 1 hour Disclaimer Don't cut off your hand or fingers. Tools Required Pen 3mm aluminium plate Number plate Drill and a range of metric drill bits Angle grinder with 1mm disc Safety gear (gloves/mask/goggles/apron) Aluminium oxide sandpaper (wet & dry) Usage Increased airflow Visually impoved fitment Decapitating falling midgets Process Step 1. Remove the front number plate, and determine by how much you want to raise it up. I raised the plate by 60mm, hence I drilled a second set of holes 60mm lower on the aluminium sheet than those traced from the number plate. Step 2. Trace the outside and holes of the number plate onto the aluminium sheet. For my generic yellow NSW plate, I made the sheet the full length (370mm), but only 100mm in width (so I can fit other plates if needed). The mount holes were 80mm from the edges (6mm holes all round). Step 3. Cut the outside markings of the aluminium sheet. Step 4. Drill 6mm holes for all the holes in the top and center. Drilling all the holes can give you better mounting options should you ever change plates. Step 5. Champher the holes using a larger drill bit, or a countersinking bit. Step 6. Sand the aluminium sheet smooth, sanding in only one direction for a brushed alloy look. Ensure the corners are sanded smooth, with a little curve to avoid careless injuries. Step 7. Test fit the alloy sheet to the bumper, using bolts with low-profile heads. Step 8. Fit the number plate using a short bolt with a locking-nut. By raising my plate 6cms, the nut on the back easily clears the paint of the bar.
  5. If you wake up dreaming of a steamy reach-around by a man in uniform, then you should consider mounting your gauges on the dashboard. Police love this. For everyone else, it's much better to just hide that sh*t so you can crab-walk over speed bumps in peace. 14psi of vacuum ftw. Difficulty = 7 Where 0 is training your dog to dump on command, and 10 is stopping them from eating it. Time Required = ~5 hours A lot of people fail where delicate work and electronics is involved, so take your time and set aside a day. Disclaimer Never go full-retard. You break it, you pay for it, etc. Tools Required Razor knife Steel ruler Soldering iron Side cutters Wire strippers Screw driver Drill + various drill bits Digital LED gauge. Got mine from Supercheap and blue was the only colour available. I am in fact straight. Various coloured wire Various small bolts and nuts Transparent blue/grey tinted plastic. I used the lid of a disposable food container. Experiment with different filters. Quality tape with a hard edge. I used 3M Scotch Brand 850 Superglue Small zip ties Thin heatshrink tubing Flux-cored solder Usage Checking boost levels without Police attention Blinding you at night Just generally looking like a sik c*nt Process Step 1. Test the boost gauge and make sure it works. My quality product needed replacement. Abuse staff as required. Step 2. Disassemble the boost gauge. If you can't figure it out, take a flat-head screwdriver and start bending things. Step 3. Mark the orientation of the LED display block, then desolder it. Step 4. Solder different coloured wires to the pins of the LED block, covering each with heat-shrink tubing. Step 5. Remove the gauge cluster from your car (unbolt and drop the steering column). Remove the cover and silver trim by pushing the tabs on the back. Step 6. Unscrew the 4 bolts retaining the speedometer, and remove it. No need to remove the needle, just spin it out of the way. Step 7. Remove the plastic dividers in the unused pocket (bottom-left of the cluster), using a razor knife and soldering iron. Wear eye protection. Step 8. Cut some notches in the plastic to slot the LED bar in place. Step 9. Route the wires through the holes in the back, position the LED bar and ziptie the wires in place. Step 10. Position the LED bar slightly below flush with the surrounding lip, and superglue in position. Step 11. Bolt the speedometer in place and mark a hole for the LED bar, using tape. Remove the speedo and carefully cut the hole using a NEW razor blade and ruler. Step 12. Cut some tinted plastic to shape, and superglue to the underside of the speedo gauge, such that the hole is covered. I will redo mine with more tint. Step 13. Install the speedo, silver trim and cluster cover. Step 14. Flip the cluster over. Remove the plastic PCB cover, drill holes and bolt the gauge PCB in place. Cover the bolt heads with cardboard and plastic tape. Step 15. Test fit the cluster in the car, to ensure the PCB mounted to the back clears everything. Step 16. Cut the LED wires to length, and solder in the correct positions using the details recorded in Step 3. Step 17. Connect the 12v line to a switch, then to power. Connect the earth and sensor, then test. My sensor was disconnected in the photos, and it really is f*cking bright.
  6. When the alternator pulley removal process is raised, many people advise to wrap it in a rag or rubber belt, clamp it with vice grips, tighten the pulley belt, etc. If don't have a rattle gun and you can afford to remove it from the car, then there is a better way. The outer coil and the inner rotor of an alternator are separate pieces, with the shaft the pulley bolts onto being joined with the rotor. All you have to do is disassemble it and stick it in a bigass vice. Difficulty = 4 Where 10 is rebuilding an engine, and 0 is ripping a dry fart. Time Required = 15 minutes + removal + installation If painting the alternator, it will take a little longer. I painted mine a terracotta colour, as you do. Tools Required Two small allen keys or rods Bigass vice Philips #1 screwdriver 1/2" ratcket 12, 14, 24mm socket Process Step 1. Remove the alternator from the car. Refer to the Service Manual if you're unsure of the process. Step 2. Remove the outer four retention bolts, and gently tap the alternator to separate the rotor from the coil. Step 3. Secure the fixed magnet of the rotor in a bigass vice with serrated plates. Use the least amount of force required to secure it, as too much can cause cracks. Step 4. Remove the pulley with a socket driver, install the new one and torque to suit. With this method you have the option of using a torque wrench if desired. Step 5. Select the coil housing and remove the rubber plug at the back. Step 6. Flip the coil cover over and locate the brushes in the bottom. Depress the brushes using a small allen key (or similar), and hold in that position. Insert another allen key through the exposed hole on the back, and adjust the brushes until the allen key on the back slots through them (the brushes have a hole in them for this purpose). Step 7. Put the alternator back together (taking care to align the mount tabs correctly) and bolt everything down. Be sure to gradually tighten all bolts equally as you go, then remove the allen key from the back once finished. Insert the rubber plug as best you can. Step 8. Reinstall the alternator and back in the glory of your lighter, funkier pulley.