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tiger_s13

why does my car 'aquaplane' in the wet, all the time.. UPDATE!

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hey guys

 

i wrote off my s13 in the wet, was out of my control, massive aquaplane through a puddle into a concrete poll

 

i now have a s14 and its so much nicer than my s13, i would be so shattered if i banged it up

 

so many roads while sitting on 80km/h the car just moves/slides/aquaplanes to the side, and it can happen every 30secs on some roads

(doesnt happen if im only doing 50-60, and hasnt happend yet on freeway doing 100)

 

i have good tread on all tyres, the car is pretty low but just low springs on standard shocks (brought it like this), so you can see the rear camber when looking at the back wheels

 

does camber make a car aquaplane, or more i prolly need a wheel alignment? or my tyre's are a shit brand and just no grip in wet? (i forget the brand and its dark/raining outside atm)

 

really wana fix this problem as i hate it moving on me when im driving in a straight line in the rain, and my g/f gets really scared.

 

cheers for any help

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Mine does the same, but I've got a few slightly out of shape bits in the rear (camber/toe arms) that I need to replace, currently running some very poor toe in :( Problem clears up when I run decent rubber on the back though, problem then is, the tyres pretty much disintegrate.

 

Definately take it to get a wheel alignment to see if they can have a good look and check out underneath, might have a few worn out bushes flexing about also, but they should be able to atleast get a bit of camber back out of the stock camber rods, which should help your cause.

 

Traction Tyres in Rowville do a decent job with alignments, 65 Kellets Rd.

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I'd say its most likely caused by camber having less surface contact to the road and possibly shitty tyres, a combination of both not being able to disperse water through the tread as you'd like it.

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Mine does the same, but I've got a few slightly out of shape bits in the rear (camber/toe arms) that I need to replace, currently running some very poor toe in :( Problem clears up when I run decent rubber on the back though, problem then is, the tyres pretty much disintegrate.

 

Definately take it to get a wheel alignment to see if they can have a good look and check out underneath, might have a few worn out bushes flexing about also, but they should be able to atleast get a bit of camber back out of the stock camber rods, which should help your cause.

 

Traction Tyres in Rowville do a decent job with alignments, 65 Kellets Rd.

 

cheers for that man, thats close by so ill save the addy

 

discern, yeah i was thinking that too, but just thought now, with the camber on the rear, that shouldnt really be making me aquaplane should it? as aquaplaning your front wheels are losing traction?

 

ild much rather the ass being not as tight and the front being totally stuck to the ground, than having the front steering with a mind of its own lol

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the camber on the tyres is factor one, and factor two is the type of tyre..ive got dunlop 3000A's on mine at the moment (cop cars use them)

just from changing tyres i noticed my car doesnt do that anymore..its the type of design in the tread that stops it..look into some half decent tyres ;)

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The best tyre you will get your hand on for wet weather driving is Good Year Eagle F1 GSD3`s, a little pricey but they were made for that kind of condition, and they are great in the dry also.

 

Rear wheel alignment is critical, if the car is lowered you will definately either need adjustable upper rear camber arms to get it back out to around 1-1.5 degrees negative camber, as it is now it would probably be seeing around 3 degrees or more, and this isnt letting the tyres do there job. You want both ends of the car planted so they are working together, nothing worse than having one end not following the other. If the rear end isnt setup correctly it will affect the front of the car a lot worse than most peoplw think, the front end should have enough room for a good wheel alignment even without aftermarket suspension parts.

 

I had my car aquaplane one day at top of 3rd gear, let me say it wasnt a nice experience, i saved it by holding it flat, the car just planted and gripped in but with over 220kw at the wheels if it wasnt for the perfect wheel alignment and expensive rubber i would have written it off, a mate done the same thing with similar mods to your car and wasnt so lucky.....

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A fiend of mine was driving R33 GTS-t onto the elgar rd onramp in the wet, third gear, went to accelerate, car just spun, smashed into the barriers, cause: aquaplaning. He had shit tires, after the car was repaired he fitted it with Bridgestone Potenza RE050.

 

The difference now in both the wet and dry is amazing, but especially the wet, they do a great job of dispersing water.

 

My 2c

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i experienced this when i had crappy and mismatched tyres (fronts different to rears)

so get some decent tread and keep it the same front n rear

 

then get wheel alignment

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The best tyre you will get your hand on for wet weather driving is Good Year Eagle F1 GSD3`s, a little pricey but they were made for that kind of condition, and they are great in the dry also.

 

Rear wheel alignment is critical, if the car is lowered you will definately either need adjustable upper rear camber arms to get it back out to around 1-1.5 degrees negative camber, as it is now it would probably be seeing around 3 degrees or more, and this isnt letting the tyres do there job. You want both ends of the car planted so they are working together, nothing worse than having one end not following the other. If the rear end isnt setup correctly it will affect the front of the car a lot worse than most peoplw think, the front end should have enough room for a good wheel alignment even without aftermarket suspension parts.

 

I had my car aquaplane one day at top of 3rd gear, let me say it wasnt a nice experience, i saved it by holding it flat, the car just planted and gripped in but with over 220kw at the wheels if it wasnt for the perfect wheel alignment and expensive rubber i would have written it off, a mate done the same thing with similar mods to your car and wasnt so lucky.....

 

+1 for F1's.. i run them on my S13 an they're awesome.. i come through a roundabout on the old warn rears only doing 40kph an it fishied so bad i went half onto the other side of the road into oncoming traffic lol scared shìt out of the mrs, i was laughing hard.. she wouldn't get in the car again till i changed the tires... got F1's an they been awesome in the wet.. go straight through the same roundabout at 60k an don't slip one bit in the wet..

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This actually happened to me once, I had just taken off, then the rear end just takes the whole car slowly sliding down OFF towards the side of the road. (Cambered road). I figure 'F**K THIS'!

 

I made sure no one else was coming towards me for a few hundred metres, point the front wheels to the opposite side of the road, HIT the throttle. The wheels actually started spinning up so fast they threw out enough water, I actually started re-gaining lost traction, once that started happening and I started moving towards the opposite side of the road, I then counter-steered to the left to setup a fulli sikk dorifto (sarcasm) slide at about a 30 degree angle UP my lane, kept the throttle on and applied, then when everything started to really come good and I then counter-steered the drift, straightened up, kept the throttle into it, regained 100% grip and just kept going.

 

I was told by many driving 'professionals' that it was the completely wrong thing to do, that I should of backed off, but, I didn't feel like having to repair and re-align bent suspension and components and what I did made perfect sense to me but not to those morons...

 

Think about it, aquaplaning is when your riding above the water, if you've lost traction on drive wheels, hit the throttle, throw the water up and out, you'll eventually start hitting road and just counter-steer when you need to. Worked for me! The other irony is, you need luck to be in a situation where you can actually pull out of it and you need some pretty decent skills!

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Its a combination of your shocks, tyres and alignment. Check your shocks, i bet they are on its last legs.

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Also for an inexpensive fix- slow down when its raining.

 

LOL

 

Ok when im on the freeway, in a 100zone, in the left lane doing 70, i should slow down even more? If cops see me doing half the speed limit, im f**ked :yes:

 

Thanks for the input everyone, has given me good info about why my cars being a bitch in the wet.

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Bump up the tyre pressure , more than normal,

in the wet. It helps displace the water from the center of the tyre.

 

It works quite well , and it costs nothing.

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interesting you say that, ive been saying for the last couple weeks i think i need to put some air in my tyre's

 

what 36-37psi be alright?

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and make sure if you have directional tires they arent on the wrong way around

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Now that I've had a thought about it, I'll add my two cents, obviously suspension settings will have a big impact.

 

1) Tyres: without a doubt, the more efficiently they can clear water away, the better, plus, some compounds go as slippery as a runny **** when wet, one big problem. You still need something that has some bite.

 

2) Alignment/camber/toe: I am no outright suspension expert so I will not comment too much on this, but obviously you need everything setup right

 

3) Suspension components: I can't say what's right or wrong, but I believe that softer suspension settings (with slower speeds to a point) will help ensure reasonable grip and keep you out of trouble (hopefully). Obviously the less give and compliance in a suspension, the higher the chance of skipping and thus the tyre riding above the water.

 

4) Drivetrain: Chatter....worst enemy, once drivetrain chatter and shock starts happening, everything tightening and loosening, really hard to keep tabs on it. Pretty much when you've lost traction, if your just an average driver you haven't really got a chance in hell of getting it back. This is why auto's are one BITCH in wet weather, you can't control how fast the transmission starts locking up so it can easily land you in trouble, if you have a manual, obviously light take off throttle and feathering the clutch is to be recommended.

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^^ also correct inflation (slightly extra is good - i run 36psi on all 4), plus larger size tyres and SLOW TO 90 on the freeway! i got a low car, with cmaber and toe adjustments etc with hard suspensions but never loose it - i got 235s on the back and 225 on the front.

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Like most have said tyres play a big part.

I had the same trouble when i first got my car due to shithouse no name tyres.

Replaced them and it solved my problems tenfold. Although i still slow down when theres water across the road.

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i dont understand why people buy cheap tires and crappy brake pads yet spend shit loads on the stereo.

 

like the f**k heads who buy crappy shoes and complain about feet pain!

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oi, i didnt buy crappy tyres, i havnt had the car long! its all pretty much the way i brought it, and im trying to make it safter/better now.

 

but going by the tyre's, and the stereo, the guy i brought it off you'd love :lol: (shit tyre's + sweet stereo)

 

btw i wear pretty good shoes... haha

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+2 on the GSD3s

 

They are really sticky in the wet.

 

People complain that they get a bit squirmy in the dry with big power levels (300+rwhp) but so far they have been great for me (stock-ish power).

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Good Year Eagle F1 GSD3 = pure rubber, with directional tread pattern , best for any weather.

 

my advice is to get them

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If they are directional tires make sure they are on the right way around.

 

I put my 180sx into a sandbank while trying to turn lightly at about 15-20km/h because i started aquaplaning on brand new tires that Bob Janes had just put on the same day backwards.

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Toyo T1-R's are better in both wet and dry than the Goodyear GDS3's, even though the Goodyears are decent in the wet.

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Too much toe out at the rear, hence when the car is loosing traction the wheels are pulling the tail out.

 

To minimise this run around ~1 to 2mm of toe in either side of rear wheels, so under load it will be either slightly toe in or neutral toe.

 

Camber adjustment would be eseential as well, the less the better, i.e. more traction. With factory Silvias, there's a -+1degree camber adjustment. If your lucky try running under 2.5 degrees of rear camber, but with lowered cars and stock traction rods, there's not much room for adjustment.

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